Lowering a 1989-1997 Ford Ranger

Welcome to my first tech article. Above are Mike and Skot, the two wrench heads that helped me with the install. I did help, it's just i was the one snappin the shots, so i'm not in any. Our project vehicle was my 95 Ford Ranger XLT, but this install should cover any Ranger from 89-97. I would also like to thank Gunman for not bein upset that i used parts of his Ranger Lowering FAQ on the rear end lowering. Trust me, by the time we got to the rear end you wouldn't have seen such happy faces in the pictures. =O)

Front End

1)	Park your truck on flat level surface. PIC 1 Chock the rear wheels. Loosen front lug nuts. Raise the front with a floor jack. Support the frame with jack stands. Remove front wheels.PIC 2

NOTE : ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS - NEVER RELY ON JACKS ONLY!!

Using the floor jack, support the driver side beam near the spring bolt.PIC 3
Remove front shocks.PIC 4
Loosen tierod end bolt & remove from spindle.PIC 5
Remove nut and tie rod end.PIC 6
Loosen lower spindle ball joint nut, and remove upper spindle ball joint pinch bolt.PIC 7
Separate lower spindle ball joint.
You can now remove spindle from beam.PIC 8
Secure spindle to frame with safety wire.PIC 9

DO NOT LET SPINDLE HANG FROM BRAKE LINE!!

Loosen and remove lower shock mounting bolt.
Loosen and remove end link assembly from beam and sway bar.PIC 10
Loosen and remove coil spring retainer nut, and coil retainer.
Lower floor jack a little bit and remove coil spring.
Loosen and remove radius arm bolt.PIC 11
Loosen and remove axle pivot bolt from frame.
Remove factory beam from truck.

Be sure to save all hardware for installation of your new I-Beams.

4)	The new I-Beams come with factory installed axle pivot bushings. Apply wheel bearing grease to bushings, sleeve, and factory bolt. Align pivot bushing with mounting holes on frame and install factory bolt and nut. Leave bolt hand tight.

5)	At the spindle end of the beam, align spring bolt tube welded into beam with the radius arm holes. Install factory spring bolt up through radius arm and beam. (Do not forget install sway bar bracket.) Install lower nut and tighten completely. Support spindle end of new beam under spring bolt.

6)	Twist the factory coil spring into place and install retaining washer and nut. Raise beam and align spring into upper seat. Be sure coils are in correct position in upper seat.

7)	Remove the caster\camber eccentric from stock beam and install into new DJM beam. You may need to loosen pinch bolt and clean out any excess paint from hole in beam.

8)	Place spindle assembly in the new beam and tighten lower ball joint first. Then tighten upper ball joint pinch bolt. Be sure to install new cotter pins.

9)	Loosen the nut on the outer tie rod end adjusting sleeve. Turn the tie rod end in 4 turns and tighten nut. Install tie rod end to spindle and tighten nut. Be sure to install new cotter pins.

10)

Install front shock. Reinstall sway bar end links.

11)

Tighten axle pivot bolts. Check all bolts. BE SURE EVERYTHING IS TIGHT!!!
When everything is reassembled it should look like this.

12)

Repeat steps 2-11 on passenger side.

13)

Now inspect the installation to be sure all hardware is tight, and free to move without restrictions.
Install front wheels and torque lug nuts.
Check the tires will turn both ways without hitting.

INSTALLER MUST CHECK THAT THERE IS ABSOLUTLY NO CLEARENCE PROBLEMS BETWEEN THE WHEELS AND TIRES, THE SPINDLE, THE CALIPER AND THE BEAMS BEFORE DRIVING VEHICLE.

14)

You now should set your toe in\out close for test drive.
Turn your steering wheel until it is straight.
By sighting down the tires and truck you can get the toe set fairly straight.
Adjustment is made at the tie rod adjusting sleeves, loosen the nuts and turn the sleeve until the tires are in a straight line from front to rear.
Close is all you need, your alignment shop will set it exactly.
Don’t forget to tighten your nuts!

15)

Take your truck for a test drive. Start off slowly and listen for any unusual noises.

16)

With vehicle on ground, measure height of front and record on installation helper.
Your measurements should be about 3” less than the before measurement.
If not check the coil springs are in upper seat correctly.
TAKE YOUR TRUCK TO A QUALIFIED ALIGNMENT SHOP FOR A PROFESSIONAL ALIGNMENT.

Rear End

1)	Jack the axle up and place 2 jackstands on either side of the differential.

2)	Remove U-bolts and U-bolt plate.

3)	Unbolt leaf spring from shackle and hanger.

4)	Remove spring bolt from leaf pack and reverse it.

5)	Place the Flip bracket on the spring bolt.

*6)	Make sure you place the offset hole toward the front of the spring.

7)	Put leaf pack below the axle and reattach to shackle and hanger.

8)	Repeat steps 1-7 for opposite side.

*-The hole is offset to move the axle and driveshaft back a little bit to correct for the lowered stance and to avoid transmission damage. If you install the bracket backwards you will but your driveshaft in a bind and could cause some major damage.

Notes on rear end lowering

If the flip kit doesn't get you low enough, you can add lowering blocks, lowering leaf springs, or the lowered hangers. BUT, you will need to c-notch, or step notch the frame, otherwise you will be sitting on the bump stops, and your ride will suck.
You should also replace your factory shocks with shorter ones if you go lower than 2" since you don't want to run them in a constant state of compression. You can get airshocks and make the rear ride height semi-adjustable.